Wide plank engineered oak flooring running through an open-plan room

Home Our flooring

Wood, laminate, LVT and carpet flooring in Wigan

Six ranges, all supplied and fitted by the same team. Here is what each one is actually good at — and where it is the wrong choice.

Supplied and fitted

We only stock what we are willing to lay

The business started in joinery, not in retail. That background is the reason the range looks the way it does: everything in it has been laid by us, on a real job, before it earned a place in the showroom. If a board delaminates, if a click system fails on an uneven sub-floor, or if a finish scuffs the first time a chair moves, we find out on our own time and it does not come back.

It also means the advice you get is about the room rather than the margin. Solid wood is a beautiful floor and the wrong one over underfloor heating. LVT is unglamorous and the right answer for most kitchens. A mid-range carpet on good underlay will outlast an expensive one on thin. We would rather tell you that at the measure than have you find out in three years.

Everything below is supplied and fitted as one job — sub-floor preparation, fitting, beading, thresholds, waste taken away — so there is one price, one team and nobody to point at if something is not right.

Parquet flooring
Engineered wood flooring
Solid wood flooring
Laminate flooring
LVT and vinyl flooring
Carpets

The names we buy from

Parquet flooring

Parquet is the floor we get asked for most and the one we are best known for. We supply and fit both 20mm solid blocks and 10mm batons, laid in herringbone, double herringbone or basketweave, with a border and a Wenge or walnut feature line if you want the edges framed properly.

Solid blocks are the traditional option and can be sanded back several times over their life, which is why hundred-year-old parquet is still being restored today rather than skipped. Batons are thinner and go down over a prepared sub-floor, which makes them a sensible choice where floor height is tight or where underfloor heating is going in.

Pattern work lives or dies on the setting out. We dry-lay the field first, centre it on the room rather than on the longest wall, and cut the perimeter to fit — which is the part that separates a parquet floor from a floor with a pattern on it.

Thickness: 20mm solid blocks, 10mm batons
Block sizes: Typically 70–90mm wide, 280–350mm long
Species: Oak, walnut, ash, merbau; Wenge for borders
Patterns: Herringbone, double herringbone, basketweave, brick bond
Finishes: Oil, hardwax oil or lacquer, finished on site
Underfloor heating: Yes with 10mm batons; solid blocks case by case
Wet rooms: Not suitable
Re-sandable: Yes — four to six times for 20mm solid

Best for: Hallways, dining rooms and any room where the floor is meant to be the thing people notice.

Engineered wood flooring

Engineered board is real timber on a stable plywood core. You get the same surface as solid wood, but a construction that copes far better with the temperature and humidity swings of a modern house — which is why it is the right answer over underfloor heating almost every time.

We stock oak as standard, from rustic grades with knots and colour movement through to prime grades that are close to uniform, plus walnut where a darker floor is wanted. Widths run from 125mm up to 260mm, and the wider the board, the more the room reads as a single surface rather than a collection of strips.

The number that actually matters is the wear layer. A 6mm top layer will take two or three full sands across its life; a 2mm veneer will take one light cut at most. We tell you which you are buying, because it decides whether the floor is a twenty-year purchase or a lifetime one.

Thickness: 14mm, 15mm, 18mm and 20mm
Wear layer: 3mm to 6mm depending on board
Widths: 125mm to 260mm
Species: Oak in several grades, walnut
Finishes: Pre-finished oiled, brushed, lacquered, or raw to finish on site
Underfloor heating: Yes — the best of the wood options
Wet rooms: Not suitable
Re-sandable: Yes — depends entirely on wear layer

Best for: Open-plan living, kitchens with underfloor heating, and anywhere a wide plank is wanted.

Solid wood flooring

Solid wood is one piece of timber from top to bottom. Nothing else quite matches it for feel underfoot or for longevity — a solid floor laid properly will outlast the people who laid it, and can be sanded back to bare wood again and again.

It does have to be treated as timber, though. It moves with the seasons, so it needs acclimatising in the room before it goes down, an expansion gap round the perimeter, and a sub-floor that is dry and sound. It is not the right choice over underfloor heating, and we will say so rather than sell it to you anyway.

We normally finish solid floors on site rather than fitting pre-finished boards. It takes longer, but you end up with a continuous surface with no micro-bevel between every board, and the finish can be matched to existing joinery.

Thickness: 18mm and 20mm
Widths: 90mm to 180mm
Species: Oak, ash, walnut, pine
Finishes: Sanded and finished on site in oil, hardwax or lacquer
Underfloor heating: No — engineered is the right choice there
Wet rooms: Not suitable
Re-sandable: Yes — four to six times

Best for: Period properties, bedrooms and living rooms, and anyone who wants a floor that outlives the mortgage.

Laminate flooring

Laminate has moved on a long way. The current ranges from Quick-Step, Meister, Finfloor and Berry Alloc are embossed in register — the texture lines up with the printed grain — so at floor level they read convincingly, and the wear ratings are genuinely tough.

The important choice is water. Standard laminate will swell if water sits in a joint, so for kitchens, utilities and cloakrooms we fit the waterproof ranges, which use a treated core and sealed joints and are warranted against spills sitting for hours rather than seconds.

It is a floating floor, so the underlay does more work than people expect — it takes out minor sub-floor irregularities, adds acoustic insulation and, in the right spec, doubles as a damp-proof membrane. Cheap underlay under a good laminate is a false economy.

Thickness: 7mm to 12mm plus underlay
Wear rating: AC3 domestic through to AC5 commercial
Widths: Standard plank and wide plank; herringbone in some ranges
Brands: Quick-Step, Meister, Finfloor, Berry Alloc
Underfloor heating: Yes with most ranges — check the specific board
Wet rooms: Waterproof ranges only
Re-sandable: No

Best for: Busy family rooms, rentals, and anywhere the budget matters but the look still has to hold up.

LVT and vinyl flooring

Luxury vinyl tile is the most practical floor we sell. It is fully waterproof, warm underfoot, quiet, and hard to damage — which is why it ends up in kitchens, bathrooms, utility rooms and any house with dogs or small children in it.

It comes as planks, tiles or herringbone, in wood and stone effects, and either as click-fit or glue-down. Glue-down is the better job where the sub-floor allows: it is thinner, it does not move, and the pattern work sits tighter. Click-fit goes down faster and can be lifted again, which suits rentals.

What LVT will not tolerate is a poor sub-floor. Every ripple and every screw head telegraphs through to the surface eventually, so most of the work on an LVT job is in the preparation — latex smoothing compound, ply overlay, or both.

Thickness: 2mm to 6mm
Wear layer: 0.3mm to 0.55mm
Formats: Plank, tile, herringbone; click-fit or glue-down
Effects: Oak, walnut, concrete, stone, terrazzo
Underfloor heating: Yes
Wet rooms: Yes — fully waterproof
Re-sandable: No

Best for: Kitchens, bathrooms, utility rooms, commercial floors, and busy households.

Carpets

We fit carpet as well as wood, which matters more than it sounds — most houses want hard floors downstairs and carpet up, and having one firm do both means one measure, one fit and one set of thresholds that actually line up.

The ranges split three ways. Wool blends, usually 80/20, feel best and wear beautifully but want looking after. Fibre-loc and stain-resistant polypropylene take far more punishment and clean up after almost anything, which is why they suit stairs and family landings. At the top end we can Scotchgard the lot.

Underlay is where carpet jobs are won or lost. A good carpet on thin underlay feels cheap and wears out in the traffic lines within a couple of years; a mid-range carpet on proper underlay feels expensive and lasts. We will always push the budget towards the underlay.

Fibres: Wool blend (80/20), fibre-loc, stain-resistant polypropylene
Constructions: Twist, loop, saxony, patterned
Widths: 4m and 5m rolls
Treatments: Scotchgard available on the premium ranges
Underfloor heating: Yes with a low-tog underlay
Wet rooms: No
Re-sandable: Not applicable

Best for: Bedrooms, stairs and landings, and anywhere warmth and quiet matter more than a hard surface.

The whole range on one table

If you only read one thing on this page, read this.

Comparison of the six flooring ranges by thickness, water resistance, underfloor heating suitability and whether they can be re-sanded
Range	Thickness	Waterproof	Underfloor heating	Can be re-sanded	Typical use
Parquet	10mm / 20mm	No	Batons only	Yes, 4–6×	Halls, dining rooms
Engineered wood	14–20mm	No	Yes — best option	Depends on wear layer	Open-plan, kitchens
Solid wood	18–20mm	No	No	Yes, 4–6×	Period homes, bedrooms
Laminate	7–12mm	Waterproof ranges only	Most ranges	No	Family rooms, rentals
LVT & vinyl	2–6mm	Yes	Yes	No	Kitchens, bathrooms
Carpets	Varies by pile	No	Yes, low-tog underlay	Not applicable	Bedrooms, stairs

Questions

What people ask before choosing

Which flooring is best over underfloor heating?

Engineered wood first, then LVT, then most laminates. All three are stable enough to cope with the floor warming and cooling. Solid wood is the one to avoid — it moves too much across the seasons and will gap or cup. Whatever goes down, the heating needs commissioning properly before and after fitting, which means bringing it up and down in stages rather than switching it on full.

What can I put in a kitchen or a bathroom?

LVT is the safest answer — it is genuinely waterproof, so a spill that sits overnight does nothing. Waterproof laminate is a good second. Real wood can go in a kitchen if you are realistic about wiping spills up, but we would not put it in a bathroom or a wet room.

How long does a floor take to fit?

A typical room is a day. A through-lounge and hall is two. Herringbone parquet takes longer because of the setting out, and anything needing sub-floor preparation adds a day for the smoothing compound to cure. We give you the timescale in the written quote rather than on the day.

Do you move the furniture and take the old floor away?

Yes to both, and it is in the price rather than added at the end. We lift and dispose of the old covering, including carpet gripper and any nails, and put the furniture back once the new floor is walkable. The only things we ask you to deal with are electricals, aquariums and anything with sentimental value.

Can I see a full-size board before I commit?

That is exactly what the Standish showroom is for. Full-size boards under proper lighting, laid flat rather than stood in a rack, and you can take samples home to see them in your own light. A 50mm sample in a shop window tells you almost nothing.

Do you supply only, or is fitting always included?

We are set up as supply and fit, and that is where we do our best work — the people who quote the job are the people who lay it, so there is nobody to blame when something is not right. We will supply materials on their own, but we will not warrant the fitting of a floor we did not lay.

Not sure which one you want?

That is what the free measure is for. Tell us the room, how it gets used and what is under the floor, and we will narrow it down to two.

Book a free measure Call 01257 425600

Where we work

Fitting floors across Wigan & West Lancashire

Wigan
Standish
Shevington
Appley Bridge
Wrightington
Parbold
Orrell
Aspull
Hindley
Atherton
Leigh
Westhoughton
Horwich
Chorley
Bolton
Ormskirk
Skelmersdale
Ashton-in-Makerfield